Thursday, September 8, 2011

A MOVEABLE FEAST

"Before these rich had come we had already been infiltrated by another rich using the oldest trick there is.  It is that an unmarried young woman becomes the temporary best friend of another young woman and then unknowingly, innocently and unrelentingly sets out to marry the husband.  When the husband is a writer and doing difficult work so that he is occupied much of the time and is not a good companion or partner to his wife for a big part of the day, the arrangement has advantages until you know how it works out.  The husband has two attractive girls around when he has finished work.  One is new and strange and if he has bad luck he gets to love them both.

Then, instead of the two of them and their child, there are three of them.  First it is stimulating and fun and it goes on that way for a while.  All things truly wicked start from an innocence.  So you live day by day and enjoy what you have and do not worry.  You lie and hate it and it destroys you and everyday is more dangerous, but you live day to day as in a war.

It is necessary that I leave Schruns and go to New York to rearrange publishers.  I did my business in New York and when I got back to Paris I should have caught the first train from the Gare de l'Est that would take me down to Austria.  But the girl I was in love with was in Paris then, and I did not take the first train, or the second or the third.

When I saw my wife again standing by the tracks as the train came in by the piled logs at the station, I wished I had died before I ever loved anyone but her.  She was smiling, the sun on her lovely face tanned by the snow and the sun, beautifully built, her hair red gold in the sun, grown out all winter awkwardly and beautifully, and Mr. Bumby standing with her, blond and chunky and with winter cheeks looking like a good Vorarlberg boy.

'Oh Tatie,' she said, when I was holding her in my arms, 'you're back and you made such a fine successful trip.  I love you and we've missed you so.'

I loved her and I loved no one else and we had a lovely magic time while we were alone.  I worked well and we made great trips, and I thought we were invulnerable again, and it wasn't until we were out of the mountains in late spring, and back in Paris that the other thing started again.

That was the end of the first part of Paris.  Paris was never to be the same again although it was always Paris and you changed as it changed.  We never went back to the Vorarlberg and neither did the rich.

There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other.  We always returned to it no matter who we were or how it was changed or with what difficulties , or ease, it  could be reached.  Paris was always worth it and you received return for whatever you brought to it.  But this is how Paris was in the early days when we were very poor and very happy."

Hemingway, Ernest.  A Moveable Feast. New York: Scribner. 210-11.

In regards to F. Scott Fitzgerald:

"His talent was as natural as the pattern that was made by the dust on a butterfly's wings.  At one time he understood it no more than the butterfly did and he did not know when it was brushed or marred.  Later he became conscious of his damaged wings and of their construction and he learned to think and could not fly any more because the love of flight was gone and he could only remember when it had been effortless."

Hemingway, Ernest.  A Moveable Feast. New York: Scribner. 147.

Thursday, June 9, 2011

MINI SHELLS WITH CREAMY SMOKED BACON AND PEA SAUCE

10 slices smoked bacon or pancetta, preferably free-range or organic
small bunch of fresh mint (discard the stalks)
150g Parmesan cheese, finely grated (6 ounces)
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
optional: 1 chicken stock cube, preferably organic
400g dried mini shells or other type of pasta (1 pound)
olive oil
knob (pat) of butter
300g frozen peas (2 cups)
2 heaped dessert spoons crème fraîche (2 tablespoons crème fraîche or
 heavy cream)
1 lemon

To prepare your pasta:
-Finely slice the bacon
-Pick the mint leaves and discard the stalks
-Finely grate the Parmesan

To cook your pasta:
-Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and drop in the stock cube (if using)
-Stir until it’s dissolved, then add the mini shells and cook according to the packet instructions
-Get a large frying pan over a medium heat and add a good lug of olive oil and the butter
-Add the bacon to the pan, sprinkle a little pepper over and fry until golden and crisp
-Meanwhile, finely chop your mint leaves
-As soon as the bacon is golden, add your frozen peas and give the pan a good shake
-After a minute or so, add the crème fraîche and chopped mint to the bacon and peas
-Drain the pasta in a colander over a large bowl, reserving some of the cooking water
-Add the pasta to the frying pan
-Halve your lemon and squeeze the juice over the pasta
-When it’s all bubbling away nicely, remove from the heat
-The sauce should be creamy and delicious but if it’s too thick for you, add a splash of the reserved cooking water to thin it out a bit
-Add the grated Parmesan and give the pan a shake to mix it in

To serve your pasta:
-Divide your pasta between plates or bowls, or put it on the table in a large serving dish and let everyone help themselves
-Lovely with a simply dressed green salad

Oliver, Jamie. Mini shells with creamy smoked bacon and pea sauce. Jamie Oliver: Official Site for recipes, books, tv, restaurants and food revolution. 9 Jun 2011. http://www.jamieoliver.com/us/recipes/pasta-recipes/mini-shell-pasta-with-a-creamy-smoked-ba
Notes:
In the first batch, I tried to drain the bacon fat and used heavy cream as a substitute for the crème fraîche which another site suggested.  Overall, the first batch did not have enough liquid..
I was really hesitant to try it with mint; and unfortunately, the amount I used was not noticable.

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

SAUSAGE-STUFFED MUSHROOMS

serves 6-8
 
16 extra-large white mushrooms, caps and stems separated
5 tablespoons good olive oil, divided
2 1/2 tablespoons Marsala wine or medium-dry sherry
1/4 pound sweet Italian sausage, casings removed
3/4 cup minced scallions, white and green parts (6 scallions)
2 teaspoons minced garlic (2 cloves)
1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup panko (Japanese dried bread flakes)
5 ounces Italian mascarpone cheese
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
 
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
 
Trim the mushroom stems and chop them finely. Set aside. Place the mushroom caps in a shallow bowl and toss with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and the Marsala. Set aside.
 
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the sausage, crumbling it with a wooden spoon. Cook the sausage for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until it's completely browned. Add the chopped mushroom stems and cook for 3 more minutes. Stir in the scallions, garlic, salt, and pepper and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the panko crumbs, stirring to combine with the other ingredients. Finally, swirl in the mascarpone and continue cooking until the mascarpone has melted and made the mixture creamy. Off the heat, stir in the Parmesan and parsley and season to taste. Cool slightly.
 
Fill each mushroom generously with the sausage mixture. Arrange the mushrooms in a baking dish large enough to hold them all in a snug single layer. Bake for 50 minutes, until the stuffing is browned and crusty.

Garten, Ina.  Barefoot Contessa How Easy Is That?: Fabulous Recipes & Easy Tips.  New York: Clarkson Potter/Publishers, 2010.  184-5.

Notes:
A scallion is a green onion.  (I did not know that.) 
There is an excess of filling leftover to fill more mushrooms or a site suggested stuffing for ravioli.
It did not require the whole 50 minutes.  The mushrooms shrink drastically and produce lots and lots of liquid. 
Next time, I might try substituting cream cheese for the mascarpone cheese.  (I'm thinking the Marsala and parsley may not make a big difference, but further experimentation is required.)

Monday, February 21, 2011

ITALIAN SAUSAGE SOUP

1 pound Italian pork sausage (spicy or sweet)
1 onion, chopped
3 cups chicken broth
1 14.5 ounce can chopped tomatoes (with their juices)
1 cup orecchiette (ear shaped pasta)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups loosely packed spinach, washed, drained, and trimmed of tough stems
4 basil leaves, thinly sliced

Cut open the sausage casings and squeeze the meat into a large skillet over medium-high heat, discarding the casings. Add the onion and saute the sausage and onion for about 5 minutes, stirring occassionally, until the sausage is light brown all over and the onion tender and translucent. Drain the fat from the skillet, and add the chicken broth, tomatoes (with their juices), and pasta; season to taste with salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the soup for 8-10 minutes, until the pasta is al dente. Turn off the heat and stir in the spinach and basil. Season with additional salt and pepper if desired and serve warm.

Foster, Sara, and Carolynn Carreno. Sara Foster's Casual Cooking: More Simple Fresh Recipes from Foster's Market. New York: Random House, Inc, 2007. 168.

Notes:
The soup soaked up most of the liquid, so I added more chicken broth and more canned tomatoes.  I wouldn't have been bothered if there was less onion, but that's just a personal preference.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

BANBURY TARTS

1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) butter
1 cup sugar
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 cups flour
seedless jelly or jam (preferably currant or raspberry)

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, or in a large bowl using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, about 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in the egg yolks, then the vanilla. Slowly beat in the flour until combined and smooth to form the dough (the dough will be a bit stiff at the end, and you may need to add the last cup of flour by hand).

3. Form the dough into small balls and make a small depression in the middle with your thumb. Spoon a teaspoon or so full of jelly in the depression. Space the cookies about 2 inches apart on a baking sheet and bake until lightly browned, about 15 minutes.

Makes 5 dozen cookies.

Shubitowski, Jacqueline. Banbury Tarts. 16 Dec. 2010. Los Angeles Times. 19 Jan. 2011. http://articles.latimes.com/2010/dec/16/food/la-fo-cookie-contest-rec7-20101216.

Notes:
I used Knott's Pure Seedless Boysenberry Jam. I also used a bit of old Knott's Pure Seedless Strawberry Jam. (Boysenberry was by far better, but it could have been the freshness.)
I couldn't make them tiny and tall. I could have put in an extra cup of sugar by accident which would explain the flatness. It made a billion cookies.

CHOCOLATE CHIP-COFFEE COOKIES

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, softened
1 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 egg
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons instant coffee, powdered or freeze-dried
6 ounce bag chocolate chips (1 cup)
1/2 cup chopped pecans, lightly toasted

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.

2. In a large mixing bowl, using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugars until light and fluffy. Beat in the egg and vanilla. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and, using a spatula, stir together until they are completely blended. Sitr in the instant coffee, chocolate chips, and pecans.

3. Drop by the tablespoonfuls, 1 inch apart, onto the prepared cookie sheet. Bake in batches for 11 minutes, until crisp on the bottom. (Reuse parchment paper for each batch.)

4. Remove the cookie sheet from the oven and allow the cookies to cool undisturbed for about 3 minutes, then transfer to a wire cooling rack to cool completely before storing in airtight tins or freezer bags.

Makes about 24 cookies.

Deen, Paula, and Martha Nesbit. Paula Deen Celebrates!: Best Dishes and Best Wishes for the Best Times of Your Life. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2006. 131.

Notes: I used the Starbucks Christmas Blend Via; each packet is about 1/2 teaspoon. I baked for about 9 minutes, so they remained soft. (In a mere second, they can be overcooked, which make them look flat and dried out, so I had to be super vigilant.)